Bước tới nội dung

Khác biệt giữa bản sửa đổi của “Giày”

Bách khoa toàn thư mở Wikipedia
Nội dung được xóa Nội dung được thêm vào
Không có tóm lược sửa đổi
Thẻ: Thêm tập tin Thêm liên kết dưới Liên kết ngoài hoặc Tham khảo Qua trình soạn thảo trực quan: Đã chuyển Liên kết định hướng
Dòng 12: Dòng 12:


== Lịch sử ==
== Lịch sử ==
{{đang sửa}}
===Thời kỳ sơ khai===
=== Cổ đại ===
Chân chứa nhiều xương hơn tất cả các bộ phận khác trong cơ thể. Mặc dù nó đã tiến hoá qua hàng nghìn năm theo địa hình và khí hậu đa dạng, song vẫn bị nhiều mối nguy hiểm đe doạ như đá sắc cạnh, gai, mặt đất nóng,... mà một đôi giày có thể bảo vệ. Giày cổ rất dễ phân huỷ vì vậy khó tìm thấy ngày nay. Các nghiên cứu cho thấy trong khoảng thời gian từ 26.000 - 40.000 năm TCN, độ dày của xương ngón chân (trừ ngón cái) giảm đi, theo giả thuyết đi giày làm giảm độ dày của xương bàn chân, cho thấy con người đã đi giày trong thời gian đó. Thiết kế ban đầu chỉ là những túi da bảo vệ chân, được tìm thấy nhiều ở xứ lạnh.


[[File:Chalcolithic leather shoe from Areni-1 cave.jpg|thumb|upright|The [[Areni-1 shoe|oldest known leather shoe]], about 5500 years old, found in [[Armenia]] ]]
Đôi dép cổ nhất tìm thấy ở hang Fort Rock, tiểu bang Oregon, [[Hoa Kỳ|Mỹ]] vào năm 1938 có niên đại 7.000 - 8.000 năm TCN.<ref name="Tom">{{chú thích web|last=Connolly|first=Tom|title=Đôi giày cổ nhất thế giới.|url=http://pages.uoregon.edu/connolly/FRsandals.htm|publisher=[[Đại học Oregon]]|access-date =ngày 22 tháng 7 năm 2012}}</ref> Giày da đầu tiên tìm thấy ở một hang động của [[Armenia]] năm 2008 có niên đại 5.500 năm TCN; đôi giày này là một mảnh da bò với dây da buộc. Giày của người băng Ốtzi có niên đại 3.300 năm TCN;<ref name="Ravilious_Kate">{{chú thích báo|last=Ravilious|first=Kate|title=World's Oldest Leather Shoe Found—Stunningly Preserved.|url=http://news.nationalgeographic.com/news/2010/06/100609-worlds-oldest-leather-shoe-armenia-science/|access-date =ngày 22 tháng 7 năm 2012|newspaper=[[National Geographic (magazine)|National Geographic]]|date=ngày 9 tháng 6 năm 2010}}</ref> nó đặc trưng bởi màu nâu da gấu với da ở mặt bên và chuỗi vỏ cây ở mu bàn chân thắt chặt lại. "Giày của mọi da đỏ" của người da đỏ ở [[Nam Mỹ]], là những đôi giày bó sát, có đế mềm, làm từ da, da bò bizon và có trang trí; tuy nhiên, chúng rất dễ ngấm nước, vì vậy những người da đỏ thường đi chân trần vào mùa hạ hoặc trong thời tiết ẩm ướt.
[[File:Sandalias de esparto (29139609730).jpg|thumb|[[Esparto]] sandals from the [[6th millennium BC|6th]] or [[5th millennium BC]] found in [[Spain]] ]]
[[File:Romanwallinscotl00macduoft raw 0263.png|thumb|right|Roman shoes: a man's,<ref>{{cite web|title=The Scottish Ten|url=https://www.engineshed.org/about-us/the-scottish-ten/sites/antonine-wall-scotland/|website=The Engine Shed|publisher=Centre for Digital Documentation and Visualisation LLP|access-date=14 October 2017}}</ref> a woman's<ref>{{cite web|title=Lady's Shoe, Bar Hill|url=https://vimeo.com/140404027|access-date=24 May 2018|date=2015-09-25}}</ref> and a child's<ref>{{cite web|title=Child's Shoe, Bar Hill|url=https://vimeo.com/140054166|access-date=24 May 2018|date=2015-09-22}}</ref> shoe from [[Bar Hill Fort|Bar Hill Roman Fort]], Scotland.]]


==== Bằng chứng sớm nhất ====
Khi các nền văn minh bắt đầu phát triển, dép thong (tiền thân của dép tông) ra đời. Bằng chứng được tìm thấy trong một bức tranh tường ở [[Ai Cập]] niên đại 4.000 năm TCN và một đôi giày ở [[châu Âu]] niên đại 1.500 năm TCN. Thong dép đã mòn của các nền văn minh làm từ các chất liệu khác nhau (Ví dụ: Ai Cập làm từ giấy lá cói hay lá cọ, [[Ấn Độ]] làm từ gỗ, [[Trung Quốc]] và [[Nhật Bản]] làm từ rơm rạ,...). Thời gian này, người Ai Cập và Ấn Độ hầu hết đi chân trần. Người [[Hy Lạp]] coi giày dép là bê tha, không cần thiết, chỉ để đi trong nhà hát còn phần lớn dân đi chân trần. Người [[Đế quốc La Mã|La Mã]] chinh phục Hy Lạp nhưng lại cho rằng giày là cần thiết cho một xã hội văn minh, tượng trưng cho quyền lực và sự tự do, nô lệ và nông dân phải đi chân trần.
The earliest known shoes are sagebrush bark [[sandal]]s [[carbon dating|dating]] from approximately 7000 or 8000 BC, found in the [[Fort Rock Cave]] in the [[United States|US]] state of [[Oregon]] in 1938.<ref name="Connolly_Tom">{{cite web|last=Connolly|first=Tom|title=The World's Oldest Shoes|url=http://pages.uoregon.edu/connolly/FRsandals.htm|publisher=[[University of Oregon]]|access-date=July 22, 2012|url-status=live|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120722013744/http://pages.uoregon.edu/connolly/FRsandals.htm|archive-date=July 22, 2012}}</ref> The world's [[Areni-1 shoe|oldest leather shoe]], made from a single piece of cowhide laced with a leather cord along seams at the front and back, was found in the [[Areni-1 cave complex]] in [[Armenia]] in 2008 and is believed to date to 3500 BC.<ref name="Ravilious_Kate">{{cite news|last=Ravilious|first=Kate|title=World's Oldest Leather Shoe Found—Stunningly Preserved|url=http://news.nationalgeographic.com/news/2010/06/100609-worlds-oldest-leather-shoe-armenia-science/|access-date=July 22, 2012|newspaper=[[National Geographic (magazine)|National Geographic]]|date=June 9, 2010|url-status=live|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120724020516/http://news.nationalgeographic.com/news/2010/06/100609-worlds-oldest-leather-shoe-armenia-science/|archive-date=July 24, 2012}}</ref><ref name="Petraglia_Michael">{{cite journal|last1=Petraglia|first1=Michael D.|author2=Pinhasi R|author3=Gasparian B|author4=Areshian G|author5=Zardaryan D|author6=Smith A|title=First Direct Evidence of Chalcolithic Footwear from the Near Eastern Highlands|journal=PLOS ONE|volume=5|pages=e10984|year=2010|doi=10.1371/journal.pone.0010984|editor1-last=Petraglia|editor1-first=Michael D.|issue=6|pmid=20543959|pmc=2882957|display-authors=etal|bibcode=2010PLoSO...510984P|doi-access=free}} Reported in (among others) {{cite news|last=Belluck|first=Pam|title=This Shoe Had Prada Beat by 5,500 Years|url=https://www.nytimes.com/2010/06/10/science/10shoe.html|access-date=11 June 2010|newspaper=[[The New York Times]]|date=9 June 2010|url-status=live|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100611103130/http://www.nytimes.com/2010/06/10/science/10shoe.html|archive-date=11 June 2010}}</ref> [[Ötzi the Iceman]]'s shoes, dating to 3300 BC, featured brown bearskin bases, deerskin side panels, and a bark-string net, which pulled tight around the foot.<ref name="Ravilious_Kate" /> The [[Jotunheimen shoe]] was discovered in August 2006: archaeologists estimate that this leather shoe was made between 1800 and 1100 BC,<ref name="Nesje Pilø Finstad Solli ">{{cite journal | last=Nesje | first=Atle | last2=Pilø | first2=Lars Holger | last3=Finstad | first3=Espen | last4=Solli | first4=Brit | last5=Wangen | first5=Vivian | last6=Ødegård | first6=Rune Strand | last7=Isaksen | first7=Ketil | last8=Støren | first8=Eivind N. | last9=Bakke | first9=Dag Inge | last10=Andreassen | first10=Liss M | title=The climatic significance of artefacts related to prehistoric reindeer hunting exposed at melting ice patches in southern Norway | journal=The Holocene | volume=22 | issue=4 | date=2011 | issn=0959-6836 | doi=10.1177/0959683611425552 | pages=485–496}}</ref><ref>[http://www.norwaypost.no/index.php/culture/13871 "Old Shoe- Even Older".] ''The Norway Post'', 2 May 2007. {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160308201631/http://norwaypost.no/index.php/culture/13871 |date=8 March 2016 }}</ref> making it the oldest article of clothing discovered in Scandinavia. Sandals and other plant fiber based tools were found in [[Cueva de los Murciélagos]] in [[Albuñol]] in southern Spain in 2023, dating to approximately 7500 to 4200 BC, making them what are believed to be the oldest shoes found in Europe.<ref name=ScienceAdvances>{{cite journal|title=The earliest basketry in southern Europe: Hunter-gatherer and farmer plant-based technology in Cueva de los Murciélagos (Albuñol)|journal=ScienceAdvances|volume=9|issue=39|doi=10.1126/sciadv.adi3055|date=27 Sep 2023|author=Francisco Martínez-Sevilla|display-authors=etal}}</ref>


It is thought that shoes may have been used long before this, but because the materials used were highly perishable, it is difficult to find evidence of the earliest footwear.<ref name="Johnson_Olivia">{{cite news|last=Johnson|first=Olivia|title=Bones Reveal First Shoe-Wearers|url=http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/science/nature/4173838.stm|access-date=July 23, 2012|newspaper=[[BBC News]]|date=August 24, 2005|url-status=live|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120603011525/http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/science/nature/4173838.stm|archive-date=June 3, 2012}}</ref>
===Thời kỳ Trung cổ và hiện đại===
Giày dành cho người nông dân trong khi sản xuất xuất hiện ở Catalonian, [[Tây Ban Nha]] vào thế kỉ XIII.<ref name="DeMello_Margo">{{chú thích sách|last=DeMello|first=Margo|title=Feet and Footwear: A Cultural Encyclopedia.|year=2009|publisher=ABC-CLIO, LLC|location=[[Santa Barbara, California]]|isbn=978-0-313-35714-5|pages=20–24, 90, 108, 130–131, 226–230|url=http://books.google.com/books?id=5QdKSxajwP0C&pg=PA131&lpg=PA131&dq=flip-flops+1960s&source=bl&ots=zmA3vCL85H&sig=xMAWwil-Ubw3zpjHup6pozxVbbs&hl=en&sa=X&ei=Hi8IUP6dNqXi0QHf5NzKAw&ved=0CEcQ6AEwBA#v=onepage&q=flip-flops%201960s&f=false}}</ref>


[[Footprints]] suggestive of shoes or sandals due to having crisp edges, no signs of toes found and three small divots where leather tying laces/straps would have been attached have been at [[Garden Route National Park]], [[Addo Elephant National Park]] and [[Goukamma Nature Reserve]] in [[South Africa]].<ref name="Helm Lockley Cawthra De Vynck ">{{cite journal | last=Helm | first=Charles W. | last2=Lockley | first2=Martin G. | last3=Cawthra | first3=Hayley C. | last4=De Vynck | first4=Jan C. | last5=Dixon | first5=Mark G. | last6=Rust | first6=Renée | last7=Stear | first7=Willo | last8=Van Tonder | first8=Monique | last9=Zipfel | first9=Bernhard | title=Possible shod-hominin tracks on South Africa’s Cape coast | journal=Ichnos | date=2023| issn=1042-0940 | doi=10.1080/10420940.2023.2249585 | pages=1–19}}</ref> These date back to between 73,000 and 136,000 PB. Consistent with the existence of such shoe is the finding of [[Bone tool|bone points bone awals]] dating back to this period that could have made simple footwear.<ref name="Helm Lockley Cawthra De Vynck " />
Giày cao gót ra đời vào thế kỉ XVI với mụch đích làm cho con người cao lên. Đến khoảng những năm 1580, cả những người đàn ông cũng đi giày cao gót.


Another source of evidence is the study of the bones of the smaller toes (as opposed to the big toe), it was observed that their thickness decreased approximately 40,000 to 26,000 years ago. This led [[archaeologist]]s to deduce the existence of common rather than an occasional wearing of shoes as this would lead to less bone growth, resulting in shorter, thinner toes.<ref name="Trinkaus_Erik">{{cite journal|author1=Trinkaus, E. |author2=Shang, H. |title=Anatomical Evidence for the Antiquity of Human Footwear: Tianyuan and Sunghir|journal=Journal of Archaeological Science|date=July 2008|volume=35|issue=7|pages=1928–1933|doi=10.1016/j.jas.2007.12.002|bibcode=2008JArSc..35.1928T }}</ref> These earliest designs were very simple, often mere "foot bags" of leather to protect the feet from rocks, debris, and cold.
Giày đế khâu ra đời vào thế kỉ XVII. Khoảng những năm 1800, giày cho chân trái và chân phải được thiết kế giống nhau.
[[Tập tin:Capri_-_7224.jpg|nhỏ|Một người thợ [[đóng giầy]] ở [[đảo Capri]], Ý]]
[[Tập tin:UK Shoe Sale.JPG|nhỏ|Một số kiểu giày trưng trong một cửa hàng tại Luân Đôn]]
Giữa thế kỉ XX, công nghiệp phát triển đã cho phép sản xuất hàng loạt. Giày được làm nhiều từ các vật liệu hoá dầu, sử dụng keo dán công nghiệp và máy khâu thay cho may tay. Giày hiện đại cần ít nhất 1.000 năm để phân huỷ tự nhiên. Vì vậy, nhiều hãng giày đã chuyển sang sử dụng các vật liệu dễ phân huỷ sinh học, tiêu biểu như [[Nike]].<ref name="nike_considered">{{chú thích báo|title=What is Nike Considered?|url=http://help-us.nike.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/13764/~/what-is-nike-considered%3F|access-date =ngày 23 tháng 7 năm 2012|newspaper=[[Nike, Inc.]]}}</ref><ref name="CSR">{{chú thích báo|title=Ground-breaking Technology Brings World's First Biodegradable Midsole to Runners.|url=http://www.csrwire.com/press_releases/15082-Brooks-R-Sports-Unveils-BioMoGo-Biodegradable-Shoe|access-date =ngày 23 tháng 7 năm 2012|newspaper=CSR Press Release|date=ngày 15 tháng 11 năm 2007}}</ref>


==== Châu Mỹ ====
Năm 2007, GDP của toàn ngành giày thế giới đạt 107,9 tỉ đôla Mỹ. Trong đó Trung Quốc chiếm 63% sản lượng, 40,5% xuất khẩu và 55% doanh thu toàn ngành.<ref name="prweb">{{chú thích|title=Báo cáo nghiên cứu thị trường toàn cầu ngành sản xuất giày dép|url=http://www.prweb.com/releases/2012/6/prweb9580832.htm|access-date=ngày 24 tháng 7 năm 2012|newspaper=[[PRWeb]]|date=ngày 7 tháng 6 năm 2012|archive-date=2013-03-13|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20130313020222/http://www.prweb.com/releases/2012/6/prweb9580832.htm}}</ref>
Many early natives in North America wore a similar type of footwear, known as the [[moccasin]]. These are tight-fitting, soft-soled shoes typically made out of leather or [[bison]] hides. Many moccasins were also decorated with various beads and other adornments. Moccasins were not designed to be waterproof, and in wet weather and warm summer months, most [[Indigenous peoples of the Americas|Native Americans]] went [[barefoot]].<ref name="Laubin_Laubin_Vestal">{{cite book|author1=Laubin, Reginald|author2=Laubin, Gladys|author3=Vestal, Stanley|title=The Indian Tipi: Its History, Construction, and Use|year=1977|publisher=University of Oklahoma Press|location=[[Norman, Oklahoma]]|isbn=978-0-8061-2236-6|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=koVdBGjlz8gC&pg=PA101|url-status=live|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180427210304/https://books.google.com/books?id=koVdBGjlz8gC&pg=PA101|archive-date=2018-04-27}}</ref> The leaves of the [[sisal]] plant were used to make [[twine]] for sandals in South America while the natives of Mexico used the [[Yucca]] plant.<ref name="Curtin_Cameron">{{cite book |last=Kippen |first=Cameron |title=The History of Footwear |publisher=Department of Podiatry, Curtin University of Technology |year=1999 |location=[[Perth]], [[Australia]]}}</ref><ref name="DeMello_Margo">{{cite book |last=DeMello |first=Margo |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=5QdKSxajwP0C&pg=PA131 |title=Feet and Footwear: A Cultural Encyclopedia |publisher=ABC-CLIO, LLC |year=2009 |isbn=978-0-313-35714-5 |location=[[Santa Barbara, California]] |pages=20–24, 90, 108, 130–131, 226–230}}</ref>


==== Châu Phi và Trung Đông ====
== Bộ phận ==
As civilizations began to develop, thong sandals (precursors to the modern [[flip-flops|flip-flop]]) were worn. This practice dates back to pictures of them in [[ancient Egypt]]ian murals from 4000 BC. "Thebet" may have been the term used to describe these sandals in Egyptian times, possibly from the city [[Thebes, Egypt|Thebes]]. The [[Middle Kingdom of Egypt|Middle Kingdom]] is when the first of these thebets were found, but it is possible that it debuted in the [[Early Dynastic Period (Egypt)|Early Dynastic Period]].<ref>{{Cite web |title=Egypt: The Birthplace of Flip Flops? – The Sheridan Libraries & University Museums Blog |date=21 July 2017 |url=https://blogs.library.jhu.edu/2017/07/ancient-egypt-the-birthplace-of-flip-flops/ |access-date=2022-05-20 |language=en-US}}</ref> One pair found in Europe was made of [[papyrus]] leaves and [[Carbon dating|dated]] to be approximately 1,500 years old. They were also worn in [[Jerusalem]] during the first century of the Christian era.<ref name="Kendzior_Russell">{{cite book|last=Kendzior|first=Russell J.|title=Falls Aren't Funny: America's Multi-Billion-Dollar Slip-and-Fall Crisis|publisher=www.govtinstpress.com/ Government Institutes|location=[[Lanham, Maryland]]|isbn=978-0-86587-016-1|page=117|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=2TzSKEvGDIoC&pg=PA117|url-status=live|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170319011755/https://books.google.com/books?id=2TzSKEvGDIoC&pg=PA117|archive-date=2017-03-19|year=2010}}</ref> Thong sandals were worn by many civilizations and made from a vast variety of materials. Ancient Egyptian sandals were made from papyrus and palm leaves. The [[Maasai people|Masai]] of Africa made them out of [[rawhide (textile)|rawhide]]. In India they were made from wood.
Mặc dù các loại giày khác nhau có các bộ phận tuỳ chỉnh cho mục dích nhất định, nhưng về cơ bản, chúng đều gồm các phần giống nhau.
== Trong văn hoá dân gian==
[[Tập tin:Salted Lake (Salt Crystal Shoes on a Frozen Lake).jpg|thumb|Kiệt tác hình đôi giày bằng muối pha lê được thực hiện do nghệ sĩ Sigalit Landau.]]
[[Tập tin:Shoehouse.jpg|thumb|''Haines Shoe House'' tại [[Hellam, Quận York, Pennsylvania|Hellam, Pennsylvania]].]]
Giày là một vật dụng thiết yếu trong đời sống con người vì vậy nó cũng gắn liền với các nền văn hoá của nhân loại.


While thong sandals were commonly worn, many people in ancient times, such as the [[Ancient Egypt|Egyptians]], [[Hindus]] and [[Ancient Greece|Greeks]], saw little need for footwear, and most of the time, preferred being barefoot.<ref name="Frazine_Richard" /> The Egyptians and Hindus made some use of ornamental footwear, such as a soleless sandal known as a "Cleopatra",{{citation needed|date=January 2018}} which did not provide any practical protection for the foot.
Ở châu Âu nổi tiếng là vào thế kỉ XVIII, có một bà già sống trong một chiếc giày với rất nhiều trẻ con. Giày cũng đóng vai trò quan trọng trong các truyện dân gian: [[Cô bé Lọ Lem]], [[Tấm Cám]],...


==== Châu Á và Châu Âu ====
Năm 1948, Mahlon Haines, một nhân viên bán giày ở Hallam, bang [[Pennsylvania]], Mỹ, đã xây dựng một ngôi nhà hình chiếc ủng, như là một hình thức quảng cáo. Nhà giày Haines vẫn còn tới ngày nay, sau khi Haines chết vào năm 1962, nó trở thành một bảo tàng kiêm nhà hàng.
The ancient Greeks largely viewed footwear as self-indulgent, unaesthetic and unnecessary. Shoes were primarily worn in the theater, as a means of increasing stature, and many preferred to go barefoot.<ref name="Frazine_Richard">{{cite book|last=Frazine|first=Richard Keith|title=The Barefoot Hiker|year=1993|publisher=Ten Speed Press|isbn=978-0-89815-525-9|page=98|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=edsITVCd2G0C&q=barefoot+hiker}}</ref> Athletes in the [[Ancient Olympic Games]] participated barefoot—and naked.<ref name="ancient_olympics">{{cite news|title=Unearthing the First Olympics|url=https://www.npr.org/programs/re/archivesdate/2004/jul/nemea/|access-date=July 1, 2010|newspaper=[[NPR]]|date=July 19, 2004|url-status=dead|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100728000414/http://www.npr.org/programs/re/archivesdate/2004/jul/nemea/|archive-date=July 28, 2010|df=mdy-all}}</ref> Even the [[Twelve Olympians|gods]] and heroes were primarily depicted barefoot, as well as the [[hoplite]] warriors. They fought battles in bare feet and [[Alexander the Great]] conquered his vast empire with barefoot armies. The runners of [[Ancient Greece]] had also been believed to have run barefoot.<ref name="Krentz_Peter">{{cite book|last=Krentz|first=Peter|title=The Battle of Marathon|year=2010|publisher=Yale University Press|location=New Haven and London|isbn=978-0-300-12085-1|pages=112–113|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=ncT8JFn-ed8C&pg=PT112|url-status=live|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180427210304/https://books.google.com/books?id=ncT8JFn-ed8C&pg=PT112|archive-date=2018-04-27}}</ref>


[[File:6 Schoen inheemse soldaat LegioIIAugusta BlackBox endeLimes fotoAvdOord.jpg|thumb|Footwear of Roman soldiers (reconstruction)]]
Người La Mã coi giày là văn minh, tượng trưng cho quyền lực và sự tự do. Trong đám cưới La Mã cổ, người cha trao cho con trai một đôi giày, biểu hiện cho sự chuyển giao quyền trong gia đình. Thừa hưởng của La Mã, các nước châu Âu ngày nay, như là [[Cộng hòa Séc|Cộng hoà Séc]], người có nhiều giày, như là bộ sưu tập, là người giàu và quyền thế.<ref name="Czech">{{chú thích|title=Czech 'Sneakerheads' Flaunt Their Best Trainers|url=http://www.ceskapozice.cz/en/news/society/czech-%E2%80%98sneakerheads%E2%80%99-flaunt-their-best-trainers|publisher=Czech Position|access-date =ngày 2 tháng 7 năm 2011}}</ref>


The [[Ancient Rome|Romans]], who eventually conquered the Greeks and adopted many aspects of their culture, did not adopt the Greek perception of footwear and clothing. [[Clothing in ancient Rome|Roman clothing]] was seen as a sign of power, and footwear was seen as a necessity of living in a civilized world, although the slaves and paupers usually went barefoot.<ref name="Frazine_Richard" /> Roman soldiers were issued with [[chiral]] (left and right shoe different) footwear.<ref>'Greece and Rome at War' by Peter Connolly</ref> Shoes for soldiers had riveted insoles to extend the life of the leather, increase comfort, and provide better traction. The design of these shoes also designated the rank of the officers. The more intricate the insignia and the higher up the boot went on the leg, the higher the rank of the soldier.<ref>{{cite book |last1=Swann |first1=June |title=History of Footwear in Norway, Sweden and Finland: Prehistory to 1950 |date=2001|isbn=9789174023237|publisher=Kungl. Vitterhets, historie och antikvitets akademien}}</ref> There are references to shoes being worn in the [[Bible]].<ref>{{cite book|title=Genesis 14:23, Deuteronomy 25:9, Ruth 4:7-8, Luke 15:22}}</ref> In China and Japan, rice straws were used.{{Citation needed|date=June 2022}}
Trong [[Kinh Thánh|Kinh thánh]] Cựu Ước, giày tượng trưng cho vật ít hoặc không có giá trị. Còn trong Kinh thánh Tân Ước, hành động cởi giày của người khác là nô lệ, tháo giày ở nơi trang trọng thể hiện sự tôn kính.<ref name="Semitic">{{chú thích|last=Farbridge|first=Maurice H.|title=Studies in Biblical and Semitic Symbolism.|year=2003|publisher=Kessinger Publishing|isbn=116137065X|pages=273–274|url=http://books.google.com/books?id=cDto8rWxKJcC&pg=PA274&lpg=PA274&dq=shoe+symbolism&source=bl&ots=g3VrPN_atz&sig=qPRcGsIawkiXdjNwO88b-Kd_6Ag&hl=en&sa=X&ei=HL4OUPGIA6Tr0gGEiIDQCw&ved=0CFMQ6AEwBw#v=onepage&q=shoe%20symbolism&f=false}}</ref>


Starting around 4 BC, the Greeks began wearing symbolic footwear. These were heavily decorated to clearly indicate the status of the wearer. Courtesans wore leather shoes colored with white, green, lemon or yellow dyes, and young woman betrothed or newly married wore pure white shoes. Because of the cost to lighten leather, shoes of a paler shade were a symbol of wealth in the upper class. Often, the soles would be carved with a message so it would imprint on the ground. Cobblers became a notable profession around this time, with Greek shoemakers becoming famed in the Roman empire.<ref>{{cite book |last1=Ledger |first1=Florence |title=Put Your Foot Down: A Treatise on the History of Shoes |date=1985|isbn=9780854751112 |publisher=C. Venton}}</ref>
Người [[Do Thái]] cho rằng tự cởi giày là tự từ bỏ quyền lực, trách nhiệm hoặc sự giải thể của hôn nhân. Trong lễ tang của chồng, vợ goá cởi giày của anh trai chồng quá cố để thể hiện ông đã từ bỏ trách nhiệm của mình.<ref name="Semitic"/>


=== Thời Trung cổ và đầu thời kỳ hiện đại ===
Người [[Ả Rập]] lại cho rằng giày là nhơ vì nó tiếp xúc với mặt đất bẩn và kết hợp với phần thấp nhất của cơ thể - chân. Hành động ném giày vào người khác là một sự xúc phạm tột cùng. Và để lộ các đế giày của mình khi nói chuyện với người khác là thô lỗ, thiếu lịch sự. Năm 2003, khi bức tượng Shaddam Hussen bị lật đổ, rất nhiều người tập trung quanh và đánh nó bằng giày của họ. Cũng vào năm 2008, Tổng thống Mỹ [[George W. Bush]] bị Muntadar al-Zaidi, một phóng viên [[Iraq]], ném giày suýt vào mặt để phản đối cuộc chiến tranh Iraq.<ref name="Arab-culture">{{chú thích|last=Gammell|first=Caroline|title=Arab culture: the insult of the shoe.|url=http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worldnews/middleeast/iraq/3776970/Arab-culture-the-insult-of-the-shoe.html|access-date =ngày 24 tháng 7 năm 2012|newspaper=[[The Daily Telegraph]]|date=ngày 15 tháng 12 năm 2008}}</ref>


==== Châu Á và Châu Âu ====
Bất kì sản phẩm nào của giày cũng tượng trưng cho cái chết. Ở Hy Lạp, đặt giày rỗng trước một ngôi nhà là muốn nói với những người trong nhà rằng đã có người trong nhà bị chết hoặc là lời nguyền rủa nhà sẽ có người chết.<ref name="Reeve_Andru">{{chú thích sách|last=Reeve|first=Andru J.|title=Turn Me On, Dead Man: The Beatles and the "Paul Is Dead" Hoax.|year=2004|publisher=AuthorHouse|location=[[Bloomington, Indiana]]|isbn=1-4184-8294-3|pages=79|url=http://books.google.com/books?id=feRa_ol-CEgC&pg=PA79&lpg=PA79&dq=greek+empty+shoes&source=bl&ots=ELuuyVAgwz&sig=LSVlExBoHi4aVg-SjLpfUFF6IM0&hl=en&sa=X&ei=KhoOUIXeH4-m8QSZzYDgDw&ved=0CDgQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q=greek%20empty%20shoes&f=false}}</ref>
A common casual shoe in the [[Pyrenees]] during the Middle Ages was the [[espadrille]]. This is a sandal with braided jute soles and a fabric upper portion, and often includes fabric laces that tie around the ankle. The term is [[French language|French]] and comes from the [[esparto]] grass. The shoe originated in the [[Catalonia]]n region of [[Spain]] as early as the 13th century, and was commonly worn by [[peasant]]s in the farming communities in the area.<ref name="DeMello_Margo" />


New styles began to develop during the Song dynasty in China, one of them being the debut of foot straps. It was first used by the noble Han classes, but soon developed throughout society. Women would use these shoes to develop their "lotus feet", which would entice the males. The practice allegedly started during the Shang dynasty, but it grew popular by {{Circa|AD 960}}.<ref name=":1">{{Cite web |title=The History of Foot Binding in China |url=https://www.thoughtco.com/the-history-of-foot-binding-in-china-195228 |access-date=2022-05-17 |website=ThoughtCo |language=en}}</ref>
Ở các nước Á Đông, giày cũng được coi là nhơ nhuốc, bẩn thỉu, gần giống với Ả Rập nhưng bớt nặng nề hơn.

When the [[Mongols]] conquered China, they dissolved the practice in 1279, and the Manchus banned foot binding in 1644. The Han people, however, continued to use the style without much government intervention.<ref name=":1" />

[[File:Walraversijde49.jpg|thumb|Dutch pattens, {{c.|1465}}. Excavated from the archeological site of [[Walraversijde]], near [[Ostend]], [[Belgium]]]]

In medieval times shoes could be up to two feet long, with their toes sometimes filled with hair, wool, moss, or grass.<ref>{{cite web |title=Getting To The Point Of Medieval Shoes |author=Ruth Hibbard |date=9 Jul 2015 |accessdate=4 Oct 2021 |website=Victoria & Albert Museum |url=https://www.vam.ac.uk/blog/museum-life/getting-to-the-point-of-medieval-shoes}}</ref> Many medieval shoes were made using the [[turnshoe]] method of construction, in which the upper was turned flesh side out, and was lasted onto the sole and joined to the edge by a seam.<ref>{{Cite web|title=Making Basic Viking-Age Men's Clothing|url=https://www.vikingsof.me/downloads/clothing-guide/male.html#shoes|access-date=2020-11-07|website=www.vikingsof.me}}</ref> The shoe was then turned inside-out so that the grain was outside. Some shoes were developed with toggled flaps or [[drawstring]]s to tighten the leather around the foot for a better fit. Surviving medieval turnshoes often fit the foot closely, with the right and left shoe being mirror images.<ref>'Shoes and Pattens: Finds from Medieval Excavations in London' (Medieval Finds from Excavations in London) by Francis Grew & Margrethe de Neergaard</ref> Around 1500, the turnshoe method was largely replaced by the welted rand method (where the uppers are sewn to a much stiffer sole and the shoe cannot be turned inside-out).<ref name="Blair_John">{{cite book|last=Blair|first=John|title=English Medieval Industries: Craftsmen, Techniques, Products|year=1991|publisher=Continuum International Publishing Group|location=[[London]]|isbn=978-0-907628-87-3|pages=309|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=PDLPX7J8kW8C&q=turnshoe&pg=PA309|url-status=live|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160425002817/https://books.google.com/books?id=PDLPX7J8kW8C&pg=PA309&lpg=PA309&dq=turnshoe&source=bl&ots=VeX_KjBRBf&sig=qi6DCjKWfNRsg5Sg1R_uO5vqyXE&hl=en&sa=X&ei=VsoOUPTeI-rq0gGj_4CwBA&ved=0CEYQ6AEwAw#v=onepage&q=turnshoe&f=false|archive-date=2016-04-25}}</ref> The turn shoe method is still used for some [[dance shoe|dance]] and specialty shoes.

By the 15th century, [[Patten (shoe)|pattens]] became popular by both men and women in [[Europe]]. These are commonly seen as the predecessor of the modern [[high-heeled footwear|high-heeled shoe]],<ref name="high_heels">{{cite web|title=Dangerous Elegance: A History of High-Heeled Shoes|url=http://www.randomhistory.com/1-50/036heels.html|publisher=Random History|access-date=July 1, 2010|url-status=dead|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100728002338/http://www.randomhistory.com/1-50/036heels.html|archive-date=July 28, 2010}}</ref> while the poor and lower classes in Europe, as well as slaves in the New World, were barefoot.<ref name="Frazine_Richard" /> In the 15th century, the [[Crakow (shoe)|Crakow]] was [[1400–1500 in fashion|fashionable]] in [[Europe]]. This style of shoe is named because it is thought to have originated in [[Kraków]], the capital of [[Poland]]. The style is characterized by the point of the shoe, known as the "polaine", which often was supported by a [[Baleen|whalebone]] tied to the knee to prevent the point getting in the way while walking.<ref name="polaine">{{cite book|title=The Encyclopaedia of the Renaissance|year=1988|publisher=Market House Books|isbn=978-0-7134-5967-8}}</ref> Also during the 15th century, [[chopine]]s were created in [[Turkey]], and were usually {{cvt|7–8|in}} high. These shoes became popular in [[Venice]] and throughout Europe, as a [[status symbol]] revealing wealth and social standing. During the 16th century, royalty, such as [[Catherine de Medici]] or [[Mary I of England]], started wearing high-heeled shoes to make them look taller or larger than life. By 1580, even men wore them, and a person with authority or wealth was often referred to as, "well-heeled".<ref name="high_heels" /> In 17th century France, heels were exclusively worn by aristocrats. [[Louis XIV of France]] outlawed anybody from wearing red high heels except for himself and his royal court.<ref>{{cite journal |last1=Riello |first1=Giorgio |last2=McNeil |first2=Peter |title=Footprints from History |journal=History Today |date=March 2007 |volume=57 |issue=3 |url=https://www.historytoday.com/archive/footprints-history}}</ref>

Eventually the modern shoe, with a sewn-on sole, was devised. Since the 17th century, most leather shoes have used a sewn-on sole. This remains the standard for finer-quality dress shoes today. Until around 1800, welted rand shoes were commonly made without differentiation for the left or right foot. Such shoes are now referred to as "straights".<ref name="Yue_Charlotte">{{cite book |last=Yue |first=Charlotte|title=Shoes: Their History in Words and Pictures|year=1997|publisher=Houghton Mifflin Company|location=New York City |isbn=978-0-395-72667-9 |pages=[https://archive.org/details/shoestheirhistor00yuec/page/46 46] |url=https://archive.org/details/shoestheirhistor00yuec |url-access=registration |quote=straights+shoes.}}</ref> Only gradually did the modern foot-specific shoe become standard.

=== Kỷ nguyên công nghiệp ===

==== Châu Á và Châu Âu ====
[[File:Shoemaker 1821.jpg|thumb|A shoemaker in the [[Georgian era]], from ''The Book of English Trades'', 1821.]]

Shoemaking became more commercialized in the mid-18th century, as it expanded as a [[cottage industry]]. Large [[warehouse]]s began to stock footwear, made by many small manufacturers from the area.

Until the 19th century, shoemaking was a traditional handicraft, but by the century's end, the process had been almost completely mechanized, with production occurring in large factories. Despite the obvious economic gains of [[mass production]], the factory system produced shoes without the individual differentiation that the traditional shoemaker was able to provide.

The 19th century was when Chinese feminists called for an end to the use of foot straps, and a ban in 1902 was implemented. The ban was soon repealed until it was banned again in 1911 by the new Nationalist government. It was effective in coastal cities, but countryside cities continued without much regulation. Mao Zedong enforced the rule in 1949 and it continues throughout contemporary times. A number of people still have lotus feet today.<ref name=":1" />
[[File:Woman's_shoe,_China,_possibly_Shanxi_or_Ningbo_style,_late_19th_to_early_20th_century,_satin,_silk,_cotton,_gold_thread,_velvet_-_Redpath_Museum_-_McGill_University_-_Montreal,_Canada_-_DSC08203.jpg|thumb|Woman's shoe, China, possibly Shanxi or Ningbo style, late 19th to early 20th century]]
The first steps towards mechanisation were taken during the [[Napoleonic Wars]] by the engineer, [[Marc Brunel]]. He developed machinery for the mass production of boots for the soldiers of the [[British Army]]. In 1812, he devised a scheme for making nailed-boot-making machinery that automatically fastened soles to uppers by means of metallic pins or nails.<ref name="Napol">{{cite web|url=http://staffscc.net/shoes1/?p=126|title=History of Shoemaking in Britain—Napoleonic Wars and the Industrial Revolution|url-status=live|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140202130102/http://staffscc.net/shoes1/?p=126|archive-date=2014-02-02}}</ref> With the support of the [[Prince Frederick, Duke of York and Albany|Duke of York]], the shoes were manufactured, and, due to their strength, cheapness, and durability, were introduced for the use of the army. In the same year, the use of screws and staples was patented by [[Richard Woodman (martyr)|Richard Woodman]]. Brunel's system was described by [[Sir Richard Phillips]] as a visitor to his factory in [[Battersea]] as follows:

[[File:Bottoming room.jpeg|thumb|left|By the late 19th century, the shoemaking industry had migrated to the factory and was increasingly mechanized. Pictured, the bottoming room of the B. F. Spinney & Co. factory in [[Lynn, Massachusetts]], 1872.]]

<blockquote>In another building I was shown his manufactory of shoes, which, like the other, is full of ingenuity, and, in regard to subdivision of labour, brings this fabric on a level with the oft-admired manufactory of pins. Every step in it is affected by the most elegant and precise machinery; while, as each operation is performed by one hand, so each shoe passes through twenty-five hands, who complete from the hide, as supplied by the currier, a hundred pairs of strong and well-finished shoes per day. All the details are performed by the ingenious application of the mechanic powers; and all the parts are characterised by precision, uniformity, and accuracy. As each man performs but one step in the process, which implies no knowledge of what is done by those who go before or follow him, so the persons employed are not shoemakers, but wounded soldiers, who are able to learn their respective duties in a few hours. The contract at which these shoes are delivered to Government is 6s. 6d. per pair, being at least 2s. less than what was paid previously for an unequal and cobbled article.<ref>Richard Phillips, ''Morning's Walk from London to Kew'', 1817.</ref></blockquote>

However, when the war ended in 1815, [[manual labour]] became much cheaper, and the demand for military equipment subsided. As a consequence, Brunel's system was no longer profitable and it soon ceased business.<ref name="Napol" />

==== Châu Mỹ ====
Similar exigencies at the time of the [[Crimean War]] stimulated a renewed interest in methods of mechanization and mass-production, which proved longer lasting.<ref name="Napol" /> A shoemaker in [[Leicester]], Tomas Crick, patented the design for a riveting machine in 1853. His machine used an iron plate to push iron rivets into the sole. The process greatly increased the speed and efficiency of production. He also introduced the use of [[steam-power]]ed [[rolling-machine]]s for hardening leather and cutting-machines, in the mid-1850s.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.british-history.ac.uk/report.aspx?compid=66568|title=FOOTWEAR MANUFACTURE|author=R. A. McKinley|year=1958|publisher=British History Online|url-status=live|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140203092232/http://www.british-history.ac.uk/report.aspx?compid=66568|archive-date=2014-02-03}}</ref>

[[File:The Shoe for '96.jpg|thumb|Advertisement in an 1896 issue of ''[[McClure's]]'' for "The Regal".]]
[[File:Attila Elina Linkopuu (16556987222).jpg|thumb|left|Attila, a former shoe factory from the 1910s in [[Tampere]], [[Finland]]]]

The sewing machine was introduced in 1846, and provided an alternative method for the mechanization of shoemaking. By the late 1850s, the industry was beginning to shift towards the modern factory, mainly in the US and areas of England. A shoe-stitching machine was invented by the American Lyman Blake in 1856 and perfected by 1864. Entering into a partnership with McKay, his device became known as the McKay stitching machine and was quickly adopted by manufacturers throughout [[New England]].<ref>{{cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=XKiGgl36bkgC|title=American Inventors, Entrepreneurs, and Business Visionaries|author=Charles W. Carey|year=2009|publisher=Infobase Publishing|page=27|isbn=9780816068838}}</ref> As bottlenecks opened up in the production line due to these innovations, more and more of the manufacturing stages, such as pegging and finishing, became automated. By the 1890s, the process of mechanisation was largely complete.

On January 24, 1899, Humphrey O'Sullivan of [[Lowell, Massachusetts]], was awarded a [[patent]] for a rubber heel for boots and shoes.<ref>{{cite book |last1=O'Sullivan |first1=Gary B |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=CIDWbb-yOQ0C |title=The Oak and Serpent |publisher=Lulu |year=2007 |page=300 |isbn=978-0615155579 |access-date=2019-01-24 }}</ref>

==== Toàn cầu hóa ====
A process for manufacturing stitchless, that is, glued, shoes—[[AGO system|AGO]]—was developed in 1910. Since the mid-20th century, advances in rubber, plastics, synthetic cloth, and industrial adhesives have allowed manufacturers to create shoes that stray considerably from traditional crafting techniques. Leather, which had been the primary material in earlier styles, has remained standard in expensive dress shoes, but athletic shoes often have little or no real leather. Soles, which were once laboriously hand-stitched on, are now more often machine stitched or simply glued on. Many of these newer materials, such as rubber and plastics, have made shoes less biodegradable. It is estimated that most mass-produced shoes require 1000 years to degrade in a [[landfill]].<ref name="Clark_Brian">{{cite news|last=Clark|first=Brian|date=October 24, 2009|title=Giày nike chính hãng|newspaper=The Daily Green|url=https://trungsneaker.com/giay-nike-chinh-hang|access-date=July 23, 2012|df=mdy-all}}</ref> In the late 2000s, some shoemakers picked up on the issue and began to produce shoes made entirely from [[Cradle to Cradle Design|degradable materials]], such as the Nike Considered.<ref name="nike_considered">{{cite news|title=What is Nike Considered?|url=http://help-us.nike.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/13764/~/what-is-nike-considered%3F|access-date=July 23, 2012|newspaper=[[Nike, Inc.]]}}</ref><ref name="CSR">{{cite news|title=Ground-breaking Technology Brings World's First Biodegradable Midsole to Runners|url=http://www.csrwire.com/press_releases/15082-Brooks-R-Sports-Unveils-BioMoGo-Biodegradable-Shoe|access-date=July 23, 2012|newspaper=CSR Press Release|date=November 15, 2007|url-status=live|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120728232020/http://www.csrwire.com/press_releases/15082-Brooks-R-Sports-Unveils-BioMoGo-Biodegradable-Shoe|archive-date=July 28, 2012}}</ref>

In 2007, the global shoe industry had an overall market of [[United States Dollar|$]]107.4 billion, in terms of [[revenue]], and is expected to grow to $122.9 billion by the end of 2012. Shoe manufacturers in the [[People's Republic of China]] account for 63% of production, 40.5% of global exports and 55% of industry revenue. However, many manufacturers in [[Europe]] dominate the higher-priced, higher value-added end of the market.<ref name="PRWeb_ibisworld">{{cite news|title=Global Footwear Manufacturing Industry Market Research Report|url=http://www.prweb.com/releases/2012/6/prweb9580832.htm|access-date=July 24, 2012|newspaper=[[PRWeb]]|date=June 7, 2012|url-status=live|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20130313020222/http://www.prweb.com/releases/2012/6/prweb9580832.htm|archive-date=March 13, 2013}}</ref>

=== Trong văn hoá dân gian ===
{{See also|Tradition of removing shoes in home}}
[[File:Shoehouse.jpg|thumb|Haines Shoe House in [[Hallam, Pennsylvania]]]]
[[File:Shoes and Fruit (p365 20).jpg|thumb|Sports shoes in [[Hong Kong]]]]
[[File:Children's shoes at school in Ladakh.jpg|thumb|300px|Children's shoes at school in [[Ladakh]]]]
As an integral part of human culture and civilization, shoes have found their way into our culture, folklore, and art. A popular 18th-century [[nursery rhyme]] is ''[[There was an Old Woman Who Lived in a Shoe]]''. This story tells about an old woman living in a shoe with a lot of children. In 1948, [[Mahlon Haines]], a shoe salesman in [[Hallam, Pennsylvania]], built an actual house shaped like a [[boot|work boot]] as a form of advertisement. The [[Haines Shoe House]] was rented to newlyweds and the elderly until his death in 1962. Since then, it has served as an [[ice cream]] parlor, a [[bed and breakfast]], and a [[museum]]. It still stands today and is a popular roadside attraction.<ref name="Lake_Matt">{{cite book|author1=Lake, Matt|author2=Moran, Mark|author3=Sceurman, Mark|title=Weird Pennsylvania: Your Travel Guide to Pennsylvania's Local Legends and Best Kept Secrets|year=2005|publisher=Sterling Publishing Co.|location=[[New York City]]|isbn=978-1-4027-3279-9|pages=131|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=bfaultPxl18C&q=haines+shoe+house&pg=PA131|url-status=live|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160306155239/https://books.google.com/books?id=bfaultPxl18C&pg=PA131&dq=haines+shoe+house&hl=en#v=onepage&q=haines%20shoe%20house&f=false|archive-date=2016-03-06}}</ref>

Shoes also play an important role in the [[fairy tales]] ''[[Cinderella]]'' and ''[[The Red Shoes (fairy tale)|The Red Shoes]]''. In the [[motion picture|movie]] adaption of the [[children's literature|children's book]] ''[[The Wonderful Wizard of Oz]]'', a pair of red ruby slippers play a key role in the plot. The 1985 comedy ''[[The Man with One Red Shoe]]'' features an eccentric man wearing one normal business shoe and one red shoe that becomes central to the plot.

One poem, written by Phebus Etienne with the title "Shoes", focuses on them. It describes religious messages and is 3 stanzas long. The first stanza is one line, whereas the second is 13 lines and the third being 14 lines. Throughout the poem the main character talks about their dead mother and their routine with her grave. Haitians are said to "not put shoes on the dead." as it makes spirits easier to "step over the offerings".<ref>{{Cite journal |last=Etienne |first=Phebus |date=2001 |title=Shoes |url=https://www.jstor.org/stable/3300161 |journal=Callaloo |volume=24 |issue=3 |pages=738 |doi=10.1353/cal.2001.0137 |jstor=3300161 |s2cid=246284343 |issn=0161-2492}}</ref>

Athletic sneaker collection has also existed as a part of urban subculture in the United States for several decades.<ref name="Skidmore_Sarah">{{cite news|last=Skidmore|first=Sarah|title=Sneakerheads Love to Show Off Their Shoes|url=https://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2007/01/14/AR2007011400451.html|access-date=2 July 2011|newspaper=The Washington Post|date=15 January 2007|url-status=live|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20121112215819/http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2007/01/14/AR2007011400451.html|archive-date=12 November 2012}}</ref> Recent decades have seen this trend spread to European nations such as the [[Czech Republic]].<ref name="Czech">{{cite web|title=Czech 'Sneakerheads' Flaunt Their Best Trainers|url=http://www.ceskapozice.cz/en/news/society/czech-%E2%80%98sneakerheads%E2%80%99-flaunt-their-best-trainers|publisher=Czech Position|access-date=2 July 2011|url-status=dead|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110620232159/http://www.ceskapozice.cz/en/news/society/czech-%E2%80%98sneakerheads%E2%80%99-flaunt-their-best-trainers|archive-date=20 June 2011}}</ref> A [[Sneakerhead]] is a person who owns multiple pairs of shoes as a form of collection and fashion. A contributor to the growth of sneaker collecting is the continued global popularity of the [[Air Jordan]] line of sneakers designed by [[Nike, Inc.|Nike]] for [[Basketball]] star [[Michael Jordan]].

In the [[Bible]]'s [[Old Testament]], the shoe is used to symbolize something that is worthless or of little value. In the [[New Testament]], the act of removing one's shoes symbolizes servitude. [[Ancient Semitic-speaking peoples]] regarded the act of removing their shoes as a mark of reverence when approaching a sacred person or place.<ref name="Farbridge_Maurice">{{cite book|last=Farbridge|first=Maurice H.|author-link=Maurice H. Farbridge|title=Studies in Biblical & Semitic Symbolism 1923|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=cDto8rWxKJcC&pg=PA274|year=2003|publisher=Kessinger Publishing|isbn=978-0-7661-3856-8|url-status=live|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20161222034528/https://books.google.com/books?id=cDto8rWxKJcC&pg=PA274|archive-date=2016-12-22}}, pages=273–274</ref> In the [[Book of Exodus]], [[Moses]] was instructed to remove his shoes before approaching the burning bush:

{{blockquote|Put off thy shoes from off thy feet, for the place whereon thou standest [is] holy ground.<ref>{{bibleverse|Exodus|3:5|KJV}}</ref>}}

[[File:Salted Lake (Salt Crystal Shoes on a Frozen Lake).jpg|thumb|Salt Crystal Shoes, art installation at the [[Dead Sea]] by [[Israel]]i artist [[Sigalit Landau]]]]

The removal of the shoe also symbolizes the act of giving up a legal right. In [[Hebrew language|Hebrew]] custom, if a man chose not to [[Levirate marriage|marry his childless brother's widow]], the widow removed her brother-in-law's shoe to symbolize that he had abandoned his duty. In [[arab people|Arab]] custom, the removal of one's shoe also symbolized the dissolution of marriage.<ref name="Farbridge_Maurice" />

In [[Arab culture]], showing the sole of one's shoe is considered an insult, and to [[Shoe tossing#Insult|throw a shoe]] and hit someone with it is considered an even greater insult. Shoes are considered to be dirty as they frequently touch the ground, and are associated with the lowest part of the body—the [[foot]]. As such, shoes are forbidden in [[mosque]]s, and it is also considered unmannerly to cross the legs and display the soles of one's shoes during conversation. This insult was demonstrated in Iraq, first when [[Saddam Hussein]]'s statue was toppled in 2003, Iraqis gathered around it and struck the statue with their shoes.<ref name="Gammell_Caroline">{{cite news|last=Gammell|first=Caroline|title=Arab Culture: The Insult of the Shoe
|url=https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worldnews/middleeast/iraq/3776970/Arab-culture-the-insult-of-the-shoe.html|access-date=July 24, 2012
|newspaper=[[The Daily Telegraph]]|date=December 15, 2008|url-status=live
|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120725033131/http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worldnews/middleeast/iraq/3776970/Arab-culture-the-insult-of-the-shoe.html|archive-date=July 25, 2012}}</ref> In 2008, United States President [[George W. Bush]] had a shoe thrown at him by a journalist as a statement against the war in Iraq.<ref name="Asser_Martin">{{cite news|last=Asser|first=Martin
|title=Bush Shoe-ing Worst Arab Insult
|url=http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/7783325.stm|access-date=July 24, 2012
|newspaper=[[BBC News]]|date=December 15, 2008|url-status=live
|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20121016125313/http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/7783325.stm|archive-date=October 16, 2012}}</ref> More generally, [[shoe-throwing]] or shoeing, showing the sole of one's shoe or using shoes to [[insult]] are forms of protest in many parts of the world. Incidents where shoes were thrown at political figures have taken place in Australia, India, Ireland, Taiwan, Hong Kong, Pakistan, the United Kingdom, the United States, and most notably the [[Arab world]].<ref name=Tel>[https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worldnews/middleeast/iraq/3776970/Arab-culture-the-insult-of-the-shoe.html Arab culture: the insult of the shoe] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180312192122/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worldnews/middleeast/iraq/3776970/Arab-culture-the-insult-of-the-shoe.html |date=2018-03-12 }}, ''[[The Daily Telegraph|The Telegraph]]'', 15 December 2008.</ref><ref name=BBC>[http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/middle_east/7783325.stm Bush shoe-ing worst Arab insult] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120530150415/http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/middle_east/7783325.stm |date=2012-05-30 }}, BBC, 16 December 2008.</ref>

Empty shoes may also symbolize death. In [[Greece|Greek]] culture, empty shoes are the equivalent of the American funeral wreath. For example, empty shoes placed outside of a Greek home would tell others that the family's son has died in battle.<ref name="Reeve_Andru">{{cite book|last=Reeve|first=Andru J.|title=Turn Me On, Dead Man: The Beatles and the "Paul Is Dead" Hoax|year=2004|publisher=AuthorHouse|location=[[Bloomington, Indiana]]|isbn=978-1-4184-8294-7|pages=79|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=feRa_ol-CEgC&q=greek+empty+shoes&pg=PA79|url-status=live|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160427133401/https://books.google.com/books?id=feRa_ol-CEgC&pg=PA79&lpg=PA79&dq=greek+empty+shoes&source=bl&ots=ELuuyVAgwz&sig=LSVlExBoHi4aVg-SjLpfUFF6IM0&hl=en&sa=X&ei=KhoOUIXeH4-m8QSZzYDgDw&ved=0CDgQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q=greek%20empty%20shoes&f=false|archive-date=2016-04-27}}</ref> At an observation memorializing the 10th anniversary of the [[September 11 attacks]], 3,000 pairs of empty shoes were used to recognize those killed.<ref name="Cohen_Sam">{{cite news|last=Cohen|first=Sam|title=Empty Shoes an Emotional Reminder of Those Who Died on 9/11|url=http://www.fox40.com/news/headlines/ktxl-empty-shoes-an-emotional-reminder-of-those-who-died-on-911-20110911,0,202292.story|access-date=July 23, 2012|newspaper=Fox 40|date=September 11, 2011}}{{Dead link|date=July 2018 |bot=InternetArchiveBot |fix-attempted=yes }}</ref> The [[Shoes on the Danube Bank]] is a memorial in [[Budapest]], [[Hungary]]. Conceived by film director [[Can Togay]], he created it on the east bank of the [[Danube River]] with sculptor [[Gyula Pauer]] to honor the Jews who were killed by fascist [[Arrow Cross Party|Arrow Cross]] militiamen in Budapest during [[World War II]]. They were ordered to take off their shoes and were shot at the edge of the water so that their bodies fell into the river and were carried away. The memorial represents their shoes left behind on the bank.

== Measures and sizes ==
{{Main article|Shoe size}}
[[Tập_tin:MarikinaRiverBankShoesjf9425_30.JPG|nhỏ|[[Giant shoes of Marikina|World's largest pair of shoes]], [[Riverbanks Center|Riverbank Center]], Philippines—5.29 metres (17.4 ft) long and 2.37 metres (7 ft 9 in) wide, equivalent to a French shoe size of 75.]]
The measure of a foot for a shoe is from the heel to the longest toe. Shoe size is an alphanumerical indication of the fitting size of a shoe for a person. Often it just consists of a number indicating the length because many shoemakers only provide a standard width for economic reasons. Globally, several different shoe-size systems are used, differing in their units of measurement and in the position of sizes 0 and 1. Only a few systems also take the width of the feet into account. Some regions use different shoe-size systems for different types of shoes (e.g., men's, women's, children's, sport, or safety shoes).

[[Units of measurement|Units]] for [[Shoe size|shoe sizes]] vary vastly around the world. European sizes are measured in ''Paris Points'', each measuring two-thirds of a centimeter. The UK and American units result in whole-number sizes spaced at one [[English unit#Length|barleycorn]] ({{frac|1|3}} inch), with UK adult sizes starting at size 1 = {{cvt|8+2/3|in|cm|1}}. In the US, this is size 2. Men's and women's shoe sizes often have different scales. Shoe size is often measured using a [[Brannock Device]], which can determine both the width and length size values of the foot.<ref>{{cite patent|country=US|number=1725334|status=patent|title=Foot-measuring instrument|pubdate=1929-08-20}}</ref> A metric standard for shoe sizing, the Mondopoint system, was introduced in the 1970s by International Standard ISO 2816:1973 "Fundamental characteristics of a system of shoe sizing to be known as Mondopoint" and ISO 3355:1975 "Shoe sizes – System of length grading (for use in the Mondopoint system)".<ref>R. Boughey. Size Labelling of Footwear. Journal of Consumer Studies & Home Economics. Volume 1, Issue 2. June 1977. DOI:10.1111/j.1470-6431.1977.tb00197.x</ref> the current version of the standard is ISO 9407:2019, "Shoe sizes—Mondopoint system of sizing and marking".<ref>International Standard ISO 9407:2019, Shoe sizes—Mondopoint system of sizing and marking</ref> The Mondopoint system includes measurements of both length and width of the foot.


== Xem thêm ==
== Xem thêm ==
Dòng 58: Dòng 139:
* [[Đóng giầy|Đóng giày]]
* [[Đóng giầy|Đóng giày]]


==Tham khảo==
==Chú thích==
{{tham khảo}}
{{tham khảo|2}}
{{Trang phục}}
{{Trang phục}}
{{Lịch sử Trang phục}}
{{Lịch sử Trang phục}}
{{Trang phục truyền thống}}
{{Trang phục truyền thống}}
{{Authority control}}

[[Thể loại:Giày dép]]
[[Thể loại:Giày dép]]
[[Thể loại:Trang bị bảo vệ]]
[[Thể loại:Trang bị bảo vệ]]

Phiên bản lúc 05:58, ngày 9 tháng 10 năm 2023

Giày da công sở
Ủng
Giày thể thao
Giày sandal của hãng Bata
Dép tông

Giày [1] là một vật dụng đi vào bàn chân con người để bảo vệ và làm êm chân trong khi thực hiện các hoạt động khác nhau. Mặc dù bàn chân con người có thể thích nghi với nhiều loại địa hình và điều kiện khí hậu khác nhau, nhưng nó vẫn rất dễ bị tổn thương, và giày giúp bảo vệ bàn chân. Theo thời gian, giày cũng trở thành một món đồ thời trang. Một số loại giày được sử dụng như thiết bị bảo hộ, chẳng hạn như ủng mũi thép, là loại giày bắt buộc phải mang tại các công trường công nghiệp.

Ngoài ra, thời trang giày cũng thường được phát triển thành nhiều kiểu dáng khác nhau, chẳng hạn như giày cao gót, thường được phụ nữ mang trong những dịp trang trọng. giày đương đại rất đa dạng về kiểu dáng, độ phức tạp và giá cả. Giày xăng đan cơ bản có thể chỉ bao gồm một đế mỏng và quai đeo đơn giản và được bán với giá thấp. giày thời trang cao cấp do các nhà thiết kế nổi tiếng thiết kế có thể được làm từ chất liệu đắt tiền, sử dụng cấu trúc phức tạp và được bán với giá cao. Một số loại giày được thiết kế cho mục đích cụ thể, chẳng hạn như ủng được thiết kế đặc biệt cho leo núi hoặc trượt tuyết, trong khi những loại khác có mục đích sử dụng chung hơn như giày thể thao, loại giày đã chuyển đổi từ giày thể thao chuyên dụng thành giày sử dụng chung.

Theo truyền thống, giày được làm từ da, gỗ hoặc vải bạt, nhưng ngày càng được làm từ cao su tổng hợp, nhựa và các vật liệu khác có nguồn gốc từ dầu mỏ. [2] Trên toàn cầu, ngành công nghiệp giày là một ngành công nghiệp trị giá 200 tỷ đô la Mỹ mỗi năm. [2] 90% giày cuối cùng sẽ bị đưa vào bãi rác, vì các vật liệu khó tách rời, tái chế hoặc tái sử dụng. [2]

Lịch sử

Cổ đại

The oldest known leather shoe, about 5500 years old, found in Armenia
Esparto sandals from the 6th or 5th millennium BC found in Spain
Roman shoes: a man's,[3] a woman's[4] and a child's[5] shoe from Bar Hill Roman Fort, Scotland.

Bằng chứng sớm nhất

The earliest known shoes are sagebrush bark sandals dating from approximately 7000 or 8000 BC, found in the Fort Rock Cave in the US state of Oregon in 1938.[6] The world's oldest leather shoe, made from a single piece of cowhide laced with a leather cord along seams at the front and back, was found in the Areni-1 cave complex in Armenia in 2008 and is believed to date to 3500 BC.[7][8] Ötzi the Iceman's shoes, dating to 3300 BC, featured brown bearskin bases, deerskin side panels, and a bark-string net, which pulled tight around the foot.[7] The Jotunheimen shoe was discovered in August 2006: archaeologists estimate that this leather shoe was made between 1800 and 1100 BC,[9][10] making it the oldest article of clothing discovered in Scandinavia. Sandals and other plant fiber based tools were found in Cueva de los Murciélagos in Albuñol in southern Spain in 2023, dating to approximately 7500 to 4200 BC, making them what are believed to be the oldest shoes found in Europe.[11]

It is thought that shoes may have been used long before this, but because the materials used were highly perishable, it is difficult to find evidence of the earliest footwear.[12]

Footprints suggestive of shoes or sandals due to having crisp edges, no signs of toes found and three small divots where leather tying laces/straps would have been attached have been at Garden Route National Park, Addo Elephant National Park and Goukamma Nature Reserve in South Africa.[13] These date back to between 73,000 and 136,000 PB. Consistent with the existence of such shoe is the finding of bone points bone awals dating back to this period that could have made simple footwear.[13]

Another source of evidence is the study of the bones of the smaller toes (as opposed to the big toe), it was observed that their thickness decreased approximately 40,000 to 26,000 years ago. This led archaeologists to deduce the existence of common rather than an occasional wearing of shoes as this would lead to less bone growth, resulting in shorter, thinner toes.[14] These earliest designs were very simple, often mere "foot bags" of leather to protect the feet from rocks, debris, and cold.

Châu Mỹ

Many early natives in North America wore a similar type of footwear, known as the moccasin. These are tight-fitting, soft-soled shoes typically made out of leather or bison hides. Many moccasins were also decorated with various beads and other adornments. Moccasins were not designed to be waterproof, and in wet weather and warm summer months, most Native Americans went barefoot.[15] The leaves of the sisal plant were used to make twine for sandals in South America while the natives of Mexico used the Yucca plant.[16][17]

Châu Phi và Trung Đông

As civilizations began to develop, thong sandals (precursors to the modern flip-flop) were worn. This practice dates back to pictures of them in ancient Egyptian murals from 4000 BC. "Thebet" may have been the term used to describe these sandals in Egyptian times, possibly from the city Thebes. The Middle Kingdom is when the first of these thebets were found, but it is possible that it debuted in the Early Dynastic Period.[18] One pair found in Europe was made of papyrus leaves and dated to be approximately 1,500 years old. They were also worn in Jerusalem during the first century of the Christian era.[19] Thong sandals were worn by many civilizations and made from a vast variety of materials. Ancient Egyptian sandals were made from papyrus and palm leaves. The Masai of Africa made them out of rawhide. In India they were made from wood.

While thong sandals were commonly worn, many people in ancient times, such as the Egyptians, Hindus and Greeks, saw little need for footwear, and most of the time, preferred being barefoot.[20] The Egyptians and Hindus made some use of ornamental footwear, such as a soleless sandal known as a "Cleopatra",[cần dẫn nguồn] which did not provide any practical protection for the foot.

Châu Á và Châu Âu

The ancient Greeks largely viewed footwear as self-indulgent, unaesthetic and unnecessary. Shoes were primarily worn in the theater, as a means of increasing stature, and many preferred to go barefoot.[20] Athletes in the Ancient Olympic Games participated barefoot—and naked.[21] Even the gods and heroes were primarily depicted barefoot, as well as the hoplite warriors. They fought battles in bare feet and Alexander the Great conquered his vast empire with barefoot armies. The runners of Ancient Greece had also been believed to have run barefoot.[22]

Footwear of Roman soldiers (reconstruction)

The Romans, who eventually conquered the Greeks and adopted many aspects of their culture, did not adopt the Greek perception of footwear and clothing. Roman clothing was seen as a sign of power, and footwear was seen as a necessity of living in a civilized world, although the slaves and paupers usually went barefoot.[20] Roman soldiers were issued with chiral (left and right shoe different) footwear.[23] Shoes for soldiers had riveted insoles to extend the life of the leather, increase comfort, and provide better traction. The design of these shoes also designated the rank of the officers. The more intricate the insignia and the higher up the boot went on the leg, the higher the rank of the soldier.[24] There are references to shoes being worn in the Bible.[25] In China and Japan, rice straws were used.[cần dẫn nguồn]

Starting around 4 BC, the Greeks began wearing symbolic footwear. These were heavily decorated to clearly indicate the status of the wearer. Courtesans wore leather shoes colored with white, green, lemon or yellow dyes, and young woman betrothed or newly married wore pure white shoes. Because of the cost to lighten leather, shoes of a paler shade were a symbol of wealth in the upper class. Often, the soles would be carved with a message so it would imprint on the ground. Cobblers became a notable profession around this time, with Greek shoemakers becoming famed in the Roman empire.[26]

Thời Trung cổ và đầu thời kỳ hiện đại

Châu Á và Châu Âu

A common casual shoe in the Pyrenees during the Middle Ages was the espadrille. This is a sandal with braided jute soles and a fabric upper portion, and often includes fabric laces that tie around the ankle. The term is French and comes from the esparto grass. The shoe originated in the Catalonian region of Spain as early as the 13th century, and was commonly worn by peasants in the farming communities in the area.[17]

New styles began to develop during the Song dynasty in China, one of them being the debut of foot straps. It was first used by the noble Han classes, but soon developed throughout society. Women would use these shoes to develop their "lotus feet", which would entice the males. The practice allegedly started during the Shang dynasty, but it grew popular by k. AD 960.[27]

When the Mongols conquered China, they dissolved the practice in 1279, and the Manchus banned foot binding in 1644. The Han people, however, continued to use the style without much government intervention.[27]

Dutch pattens, k. 1465. Excavated from the archeological site of Walraversijde, near Ostend, Belgium

In medieval times shoes could be up to two feet long, with their toes sometimes filled with hair, wool, moss, or grass.[28] Many medieval shoes were made using the turnshoe method of construction, in which the upper was turned flesh side out, and was lasted onto the sole and joined to the edge by a seam.[29] The shoe was then turned inside-out so that the grain was outside. Some shoes were developed with toggled flaps or drawstrings to tighten the leather around the foot for a better fit. Surviving medieval turnshoes often fit the foot closely, with the right and left shoe being mirror images.[30] Around 1500, the turnshoe method was largely replaced by the welted rand method (where the uppers are sewn to a much stiffer sole and the shoe cannot be turned inside-out).[31] The turn shoe method is still used for some dance and specialty shoes.

By the 15th century, pattens became popular by both men and women in Europe. These are commonly seen as the predecessor of the modern high-heeled shoe,[32] while the poor and lower classes in Europe, as well as slaves in the New World, were barefoot.[20] In the 15th century, the Crakow was fashionable in Europe. This style of shoe is named because it is thought to have originated in Kraków, the capital of Poland. The style is characterized by the point of the shoe, known as the "polaine", which often was supported by a whalebone tied to the knee to prevent the point getting in the way while walking.[33] Also during the 15th century, chopines were created in Turkey, and were usually 7–8 in (180–200 mm) high. These shoes became popular in Venice and throughout Europe, as a status symbol revealing wealth and social standing. During the 16th century, royalty, such as Catherine de Medici or Mary I of England, started wearing high-heeled shoes to make them look taller or larger than life. By 1580, even men wore them, and a person with authority or wealth was often referred to as, "well-heeled".[32] In 17th century France, heels were exclusively worn by aristocrats. Louis XIV of France outlawed anybody from wearing red high heels except for himself and his royal court.[34]

Eventually the modern shoe, with a sewn-on sole, was devised. Since the 17th century, most leather shoes have used a sewn-on sole. This remains the standard for finer-quality dress shoes today. Until around 1800, welted rand shoes were commonly made without differentiation for the left or right foot. Such shoes are now referred to as "straights".[35] Only gradually did the modern foot-specific shoe become standard.

Kỷ nguyên công nghiệp

Châu Á và Châu Âu

A shoemaker in the Georgian era, from The Book of English Trades, 1821.

Shoemaking became more commercialized in the mid-18th century, as it expanded as a cottage industry. Large warehouses began to stock footwear, made by many small manufacturers from the area.

Until the 19th century, shoemaking was a traditional handicraft, but by the century's end, the process had been almost completely mechanized, with production occurring in large factories. Despite the obvious economic gains of mass production, the factory system produced shoes without the individual differentiation that the traditional shoemaker was able to provide.

The 19th century was when Chinese feminists called for an end to the use of foot straps, and a ban in 1902 was implemented. The ban was soon repealed until it was banned again in 1911 by the new Nationalist government. It was effective in coastal cities, but countryside cities continued without much regulation. Mao Zedong enforced the rule in 1949 and it continues throughout contemporary times. A number of people still have lotus feet today.[27]

Woman's shoe, China, possibly Shanxi or Ningbo style, late 19th to early 20th century

The first steps towards mechanisation were taken during the Napoleonic Wars by the engineer, Marc Brunel. He developed machinery for the mass production of boots for the soldiers of the British Army. In 1812, he devised a scheme for making nailed-boot-making machinery that automatically fastened soles to uppers by means of metallic pins or nails.[36] With the support of the Duke of York, the shoes were manufactured, and, due to their strength, cheapness, and durability, were introduced for the use of the army. In the same year, the use of screws and staples was patented by Richard Woodman. Brunel's system was described by Sir Richard Phillips as a visitor to his factory in Battersea as follows:

By the late 19th century, the shoemaking industry had migrated to the factory and was increasingly mechanized. Pictured, the bottoming room of the B. F. Spinney & Co. factory in Lynn, Massachusetts, 1872.

In another building I was shown his manufactory of shoes, which, like the other, is full of ingenuity, and, in regard to subdivision of labour, brings this fabric on a level with the oft-admired manufactory of pins. Every step in it is affected by the most elegant and precise machinery; while, as each operation is performed by one hand, so each shoe passes through twenty-five hands, who complete from the hide, as supplied by the currier, a hundred pairs of strong and well-finished shoes per day. All the details are performed by the ingenious application of the mechanic powers; and all the parts are characterised by precision, uniformity, and accuracy. As each man performs but one step in the process, which implies no knowledge of what is done by those who go before or follow him, so the persons employed are not shoemakers, but wounded soldiers, who are able to learn their respective duties in a few hours. The contract at which these shoes are delivered to Government is 6s. 6d. per pair, being at least 2s. less than what was paid previously for an unequal and cobbled article.[37]

However, when the war ended in 1815, manual labour became much cheaper, and the demand for military equipment subsided. As a consequence, Brunel's system was no longer profitable and it soon ceased business.[36]

Châu Mỹ

Similar exigencies at the time of the Crimean War stimulated a renewed interest in methods of mechanization and mass-production, which proved longer lasting.[36] A shoemaker in Leicester, Tomas Crick, patented the design for a riveting machine in 1853. His machine used an iron plate to push iron rivets into the sole. The process greatly increased the speed and efficiency of production. He also introduced the use of steam-powered rolling-machines for hardening leather and cutting-machines, in the mid-1850s.[38]

Advertisement in an 1896 issue of McClure's for "The Regal".
Attila, a former shoe factory from the 1910s in Tampere, Finland

The sewing machine was introduced in 1846, and provided an alternative method for the mechanization of shoemaking. By the late 1850s, the industry was beginning to shift towards the modern factory, mainly in the US and areas of England. A shoe-stitching machine was invented by the American Lyman Blake in 1856 and perfected by 1864. Entering into a partnership with McKay, his device became known as the McKay stitching machine and was quickly adopted by manufacturers throughout New England.[39] As bottlenecks opened up in the production line due to these innovations, more and more of the manufacturing stages, such as pegging and finishing, became automated. By the 1890s, the process of mechanisation was largely complete.

On January 24, 1899, Humphrey O'Sullivan of Lowell, Massachusetts, was awarded a patent for a rubber heel for boots and shoes.[40]

Toàn cầu hóa

A process for manufacturing stitchless, that is, glued, shoes—AGO—was developed in 1910. Since the mid-20th century, advances in rubber, plastics, synthetic cloth, and industrial adhesives have allowed manufacturers to create shoes that stray considerably from traditional crafting techniques. Leather, which had been the primary material in earlier styles, has remained standard in expensive dress shoes, but athletic shoes often have little or no real leather. Soles, which were once laboriously hand-stitched on, are now more often machine stitched or simply glued on. Many of these newer materials, such as rubber and plastics, have made shoes less biodegradable. It is estimated that most mass-produced shoes require 1000 years to degrade in a landfill.[41] In the late 2000s, some shoemakers picked up on the issue and began to produce shoes made entirely from degradable materials, such as the Nike Considered.[42][43]

In 2007, the global shoe industry had an overall market of $107.4 billion, in terms of revenue, and is expected to grow to $122.9 billion by the end of 2012. Shoe manufacturers in the People's Republic of China account for 63% of production, 40.5% of global exports and 55% of industry revenue. However, many manufacturers in Europe dominate the higher-priced, higher value-added end of the market.[44]

Trong văn hoá dân gian

Haines Shoe House in Hallam, Pennsylvania
Sports shoes in Hong Kong
Children's shoes at school in Ladakh

As an integral part of human culture and civilization, shoes have found their way into our culture, folklore, and art. A popular 18th-century nursery rhyme is There was an Old Woman Who Lived in a Shoe. This story tells about an old woman living in a shoe with a lot of children. In 1948, Mahlon Haines, a shoe salesman in Hallam, Pennsylvania, built an actual house shaped like a work boot as a form of advertisement. The Haines Shoe House was rented to newlyweds and the elderly until his death in 1962. Since then, it has served as an ice cream parlor, a bed and breakfast, and a museum. It still stands today and is a popular roadside attraction.[45]

Shoes also play an important role in the fairy tales Cinderella and The Red Shoes. In the movie adaption of the children's book The Wonderful Wizard of Oz, a pair of red ruby slippers play a key role in the plot. The 1985 comedy The Man with One Red Shoe features an eccentric man wearing one normal business shoe and one red shoe that becomes central to the plot.

One poem, written by Phebus Etienne with the title "Shoes", focuses on them. It describes religious messages and is 3 stanzas long. The first stanza is one line, whereas the second is 13 lines and the third being 14 lines. Throughout the poem the main character talks about their dead mother and their routine with her grave. Haitians are said to "not put shoes on the dead." as it makes spirits easier to "step over the offerings".[46]

Athletic sneaker collection has also existed as a part of urban subculture in the United States for several decades.[47] Recent decades have seen this trend spread to European nations such as the Czech Republic.[48] A Sneakerhead is a person who owns multiple pairs of shoes as a form of collection and fashion. A contributor to the growth of sneaker collecting is the continued global popularity of the Air Jordan line of sneakers designed by Nike for Basketball star Michael Jordan.

In the Bible's Old Testament, the shoe is used to symbolize something that is worthless or of little value. In the New Testament, the act of removing one's shoes symbolizes servitude. Ancient Semitic-speaking peoples regarded the act of removing their shoes as a mark of reverence when approaching a sacred person or place.[49] In the Book of Exodus, Moses was instructed to remove his shoes before approaching the burning bush:

Put off thy shoes from off thy feet, for the place whereon thou standest [is] holy ground.[50]

Salt Crystal Shoes, art installation at the Dead Sea by Israeli artist Sigalit Landau

The removal of the shoe also symbolizes the act of giving up a legal right. In Hebrew custom, if a man chose not to marry his childless brother's widow, the widow removed her brother-in-law's shoe to symbolize that he had abandoned his duty. In Arab custom, the removal of one's shoe also symbolized the dissolution of marriage.[49]

In Arab culture, showing the sole of one's shoe is considered an insult, and to throw a shoe and hit someone with it is considered an even greater insult. Shoes are considered to be dirty as they frequently touch the ground, and are associated with the lowest part of the body—the foot. As such, shoes are forbidden in mosques, and it is also considered unmannerly to cross the legs and display the soles of one's shoes during conversation. This insult was demonstrated in Iraq, first when Saddam Hussein's statue was toppled in 2003, Iraqis gathered around it and struck the statue with their shoes.[51] In 2008, United States President George W. Bush had a shoe thrown at him by a journalist as a statement against the war in Iraq.[52] More generally, shoe-throwing or shoeing, showing the sole of one's shoe or using shoes to insult are forms of protest in many parts of the world. Incidents where shoes were thrown at political figures have taken place in Australia, India, Ireland, Taiwan, Hong Kong, Pakistan, the United Kingdom, the United States, and most notably the Arab world.[53][54]

Empty shoes may also symbolize death. In Greek culture, empty shoes are the equivalent of the American funeral wreath. For example, empty shoes placed outside of a Greek home would tell others that the family's son has died in battle.[55] At an observation memorializing the 10th anniversary of the September 11 attacks, 3,000 pairs of empty shoes were used to recognize those killed.[56] The Shoes on the Danube Bank is a memorial in Budapest, Hungary. Conceived by film director Can Togay, he created it on the east bank of the Danube River with sculptor Gyula Pauer to honor the Jews who were killed by fascist Arrow Cross militiamen in Budapest during World War II. They were ordered to take off their shoes and were shot at the edge of the water so that their bodies fell into the river and were carried away. The memorial represents their shoes left behind on the bank.

Measures and sizes

World's largest pair of shoes, Riverbank Center, Philippines—5.29 metres (17.4 ft) long and 2.37 metres (7 ft 9 in) wide, equivalent to a French shoe size of 75.

The measure of a foot for a shoe is from the heel to the longest toe. Shoe size is an alphanumerical indication of the fitting size of a shoe for a person. Often it just consists of a number indicating the length because many shoemakers only provide a standard width for economic reasons. Globally, several different shoe-size systems are used, differing in their units of measurement and in the position of sizes 0 and 1. Only a few systems also take the width of the feet into account. Some regions use different shoe-size systems for different types of shoes (e.g., men's, women's, children's, sport, or safety shoes).

Units for shoe sizes vary vastly around the world. European sizes are measured in Paris Points, each measuring two-thirds of a centimeter. The UK and American units result in whole-number sizes spaced at one barleycorn (13 inch), with UK adult sizes starting at size 1 = 8+23 in (22,0 cm). In the US, this is size 2. Men's and women's shoe sizes often have different scales. Shoe size is often measured using a Brannock Device, which can determine both the width and length size values of the foot.[57] A metric standard for shoe sizing, the Mondopoint system, was introduced in the 1970s by International Standard ISO 2816:1973 "Fundamental characteristics of a system of shoe sizing to be known as Mondopoint" and ISO 3355:1975 "Shoe sizes – System of length grading (for use in the Mondopoint system)".[58] the current version of the standard is ISO 9407:2019, "Shoe sizes—Mondopoint system of sizing and marking".[59] The Mondopoint system includes measurements of both length and width of the foot.

Xem thêm

Chú thích

  1. ^ Từ điển Tiếng Việt (Từ điển Hoàng Phê), Viện ngôn ngữ học Việt Nam, Nhà xuất bản Đà Nẵng, 2003.
  2. ^ a b c Hoskins, Tansy E. (21 tháng 3 năm 2020). 'Some soles last 1,000 years in landfill': the truth about the sneaker mountain”. The Guardian (bằng tiếng Anh). Truy cập ngày 19 tháng 2 năm 2021.
  3. ^ “The Scottish Ten”. The Engine Shed. Centre for Digital Documentation and Visualisation LLP. Truy cập ngày 14 tháng 10 năm 2017.
  4. ^ “Lady's Shoe, Bar Hill”. 25 tháng 9 năm 2015. Truy cập ngày 24 tháng 5 năm 2018.
  5. ^ “Child's Shoe, Bar Hill”. 22 tháng 9 năm 2015. Truy cập ngày 24 tháng 5 năm 2018.
  6. ^ Connolly, Tom. “The World's Oldest Shoes”. University of Oregon. Lưu trữ bản gốc ngày 22 tháng 7 năm 2012. Truy cập ngày 22 tháng 7 năm 2012.
  7. ^ a b Ravilious, Kate (9 tháng 6 năm 2010). “World's Oldest Leather Shoe Found—Stunningly Preserved”. National Geographic. Lưu trữ bản gốc ngày 24 tháng 7 năm 2012. Truy cập ngày 22 tháng 7 năm 2012.
  8. ^ Petraglia, Michael D.; Pinhasi R; Gasparian B; Areshian G; Zardaryan D; Smith A; và đồng nghiệp (2010). Petraglia, Michael D. (biên tập). “First Direct Evidence of Chalcolithic Footwear from the Near Eastern Highlands”. PLOS ONE. 5 (6): e10984. Bibcode:2010PLoSO...510984P. doi:10.1371/journal.pone.0010984. PMC 2882957. PMID 20543959. Reported in (among others) Belluck, Pam (9 tháng 6 năm 2010). “This Shoe Had Prada Beat by 5,500 Years”. The New York Times. Lưu trữ bản gốc ngày 11 tháng 6 năm 2010. Truy cập ngày 11 tháng 6 năm 2010.
  9. ^ Nesje, Atle; Pilø, Lars Holger; Finstad, Espen; Solli, Brit; Wangen, Vivian; Ødegård, Rune Strand; Isaksen, Ketil; Støren, Eivind N.; Bakke, Dag Inge; Andreassen, Liss M (2011). “The climatic significance of artefacts related to prehistoric reindeer hunting exposed at melting ice patches in southern Norway”. The Holocene. 22 (4): 485–496. doi:10.1177/0959683611425552. ISSN 0959-6836.
  10. ^ "Old Shoe- Even Older". The Norway Post, 2 May 2007. Lưu trữ 8 tháng 3 2016 tại Wayback Machine
  11. ^ Francisco Martínez-Sevilla; và đồng nghiệp (27 tháng 9 năm 2023). “The earliest basketry in southern Europe: Hunter-gatherer and farmer plant-based technology in Cueva de los Murciélagos (Albuñol)”. ScienceAdvances. 9 (39). doi:10.1126/sciadv.adi3055.
  12. ^ Johnson, Olivia (24 tháng 8 năm 2005). “Bones Reveal First Shoe-Wearers”. BBC News. Lưu trữ bản gốc ngày 3 tháng 6 năm 2012. Truy cập ngày 23 tháng 7 năm 2012.
  13. ^ a b Helm, Charles W.; Lockley, Martin G.; Cawthra, Hayley C.; De Vynck, Jan C.; Dixon, Mark G.; Rust, Renée; Stear, Willo; Van Tonder, Monique; Zipfel, Bernhard (2023). “Possible shod-hominin tracks on South Africa's Cape coast”. Ichnos: 1–19. doi:10.1080/10420940.2023.2249585. ISSN 1042-0940.
  14. ^ Trinkaus, E.; Shang, H. (tháng 7 năm 2008). “Anatomical Evidence for the Antiquity of Human Footwear: Tianyuan and Sunghir”. Journal of Archaeological Science. 35 (7): 1928–1933. Bibcode:2008JArSc..35.1928T. doi:10.1016/j.jas.2007.12.002.
  15. ^ Laubin, Reginald; Laubin, Gladys; Vestal, Stanley (1977). The Indian Tipi: Its History, Construction, and Use. Norman, Oklahoma: University of Oklahoma Press. ISBN 978-0-8061-2236-6. Lưu trữ bản gốc ngày 27 tháng 4 năm 2018.
  16. ^ Kippen, Cameron (1999). The History of Footwear. Perth, Australia: Department of Podiatry, Curtin University of Technology.
  17. ^ a b DeMello, Margo (2009). Feet and Footwear: A Cultural Encyclopedia. Santa Barbara, California: ABC-CLIO, LLC. tr. 20–24, 90, 108, 130–131, 226–230. ISBN 978-0-313-35714-5.
  18. ^ “Egypt: The Birthplace of Flip Flops? – The Sheridan Libraries & University Museums Blog” (bằng tiếng Anh). 21 tháng 7 năm 2017. Truy cập ngày 20 tháng 5 năm 2022.
  19. ^ Kendzior, Russell J. (2010). Falls Aren't Funny: America's Multi-Billion-Dollar Slip-and-Fall Crisis. Lanham, Maryland: www.govtinstpress.com/ Government Institutes. tr. 117. ISBN 978-0-86587-016-1. Lưu trữ bản gốc ngày 19 tháng 3 năm 2017.
  20. ^ a b c d Frazine, Richard Keith (1993). The Barefoot Hiker. Ten Speed Press. tr. 98. ISBN 978-0-89815-525-9.
  21. ^ “Unearthing the First Olympics”. NPR. 19 tháng 7 năm 2004. Bản gốc lưu trữ 28 tháng Bảy năm 2010. Truy cập 1 tháng Bảy năm 2010.
  22. ^ Krentz, Peter (2010). The Battle of Marathon. New Haven and London: Yale University Press. tr. 112–113. ISBN 978-0-300-12085-1. Lưu trữ bản gốc ngày 27 tháng 4 năm 2018.
  23. ^ 'Greece and Rome at War' by Peter Connolly
  24. ^ Swann, June (2001). History of Footwear in Norway, Sweden and Finland: Prehistory to 1950. Kungl. Vitterhets, historie och antikvitets akademien. ISBN 9789174023237.
  25. ^ Genesis 14:23, Deuteronomy 25:9, Ruth 4:7-8, Luke 15:22.
  26. ^ Ledger, Florence (1985). Put Your Foot Down: A Treatise on the History of Shoes. C. Venton. ISBN 9780854751112.
  27. ^ a b c “The History of Foot Binding in China”. ThoughtCo (bằng tiếng Anh). Truy cập ngày 17 tháng 5 năm 2022.
  28. ^ Ruth Hibbard (9 tháng 7 năm 2015). “Getting To The Point Of Medieval Shoes”. Victoria & Albert Museum. Truy cập ngày 4 tháng 10 năm 2021.
  29. ^ “Making Basic Viking-Age Men's Clothing”. www.vikingsof.me. Truy cập ngày 7 tháng 11 năm 2020.
  30. ^ 'Shoes and Pattens: Finds from Medieval Excavations in London' (Medieval Finds from Excavations in London) by Francis Grew & Margrethe de Neergaard
  31. ^ Blair, John (1991). English Medieval Industries: Craftsmen, Techniques, Products. London: Continuum International Publishing Group. tr. 309. ISBN 978-0-907628-87-3. Lưu trữ bản gốc ngày 25 tháng 4 năm 2016.
  32. ^ a b “Dangerous Elegance: A History of High-Heeled Shoes”. Random History. Bản gốc lưu trữ ngày 28 tháng 7 năm 2010. Truy cập ngày 1 tháng 7 năm 2010.
  33. ^ The Encyclopaedia of the Renaissance. Market House Books. 1988. ISBN 978-0-7134-5967-8.
  34. ^ Riello, Giorgio; McNeil, Peter (tháng 3 năm 2007). “Footprints from History”. History Today. 57 (3).
  35. ^ Yue, Charlotte (1997). Shoes: Their History in Words and Pictures. New York City: Houghton Mifflin Company. tr. 46. ISBN 978-0-395-72667-9. straights+shoes.
  36. ^ a b c “History of Shoemaking in Britain—Napoleonic Wars and the Industrial Revolution”. Lưu trữ bản gốc ngày 2 tháng 2 năm 2014.
  37. ^ Richard Phillips, Morning's Walk from London to Kew, 1817.
  38. ^ R. A. McKinley (1958). “FOOTWEAR MANUFACTURE”. British History Online. Lưu trữ bản gốc ngày 3 tháng 2 năm 2014.
  39. ^ Charles W. Carey (2009). American Inventors, Entrepreneurs, and Business Visionaries. Infobase Publishing. tr. 27. ISBN 9780816068838.
  40. ^ O'Sullivan, Gary B (2007). The Oak and Serpent. Lulu. tr. 300. ISBN 978-0615155579. Truy cập ngày 24 tháng 1 năm 2019.
  41. ^ Clark, Brian (24 tháng 10 năm 2009). “Giày nike chính hãng”. The Daily Green. Truy cập 23 tháng Bảy năm 2012.
  42. ^ “What is Nike Considered?”. Nike, Inc. Truy cập ngày 23 tháng 7 năm 2012.
  43. ^ “Ground-breaking Technology Brings World's First Biodegradable Midsole to Runners”. CSR Press Release. 15 tháng 11 năm 2007. Lưu trữ bản gốc ngày 28 tháng 7 năm 2012. Truy cập ngày 23 tháng 7 năm 2012.
  44. ^ “Global Footwear Manufacturing Industry Market Research Report”. PRWeb. 7 tháng 6 năm 2012. Lưu trữ bản gốc ngày 13 tháng 3 năm 2013. Truy cập ngày 24 tháng 7 năm 2012.
  45. ^ Lake, Matt; Moran, Mark; Sceurman, Mark (2005). Weird Pennsylvania: Your Travel Guide to Pennsylvania's Local Legends and Best Kept Secrets. New York City: Sterling Publishing Co. tr. 131. ISBN 978-1-4027-3279-9. Lưu trữ bản gốc ngày 6 tháng 3 năm 2016.
  46. ^ Etienne, Phebus (2001). “Shoes”. Callaloo. 24 (3): 738. doi:10.1353/cal.2001.0137. ISSN 0161-2492. JSTOR 3300161. S2CID 246284343.
  47. ^ Skidmore, Sarah (15 tháng 1 năm 2007). “Sneakerheads Love to Show Off Their Shoes”. The Washington Post. Lưu trữ bản gốc ngày 12 tháng 11 năm 2012. Truy cập ngày 2 tháng 7 năm 2011.
  48. ^ “Czech 'Sneakerheads' Flaunt Their Best Trainers”. Czech Position. Bản gốc lưu trữ ngày 20 tháng 6 năm 2011. Truy cập ngày 2 tháng 7 năm 2011.
  49. ^ a b Farbridge, Maurice H. (2003). Studies in Biblical & Semitic Symbolism 1923. Kessinger Publishing. ISBN 978-0-7661-3856-8. Lưu trữ bản gốc ngày 22 tháng 12 năm 2016., pages=273–274
  50. ^ Exodus 3:5
  51. ^ Gammell, Caroline (15 tháng 12 năm 2008). “Arab Culture: The Insult of the Shoe”. The Daily Telegraph. Lưu trữ bản gốc ngày 25 tháng 7 năm 2012. Truy cập ngày 24 tháng 7 năm 2012.
  52. ^ Asser, Martin (15 tháng 12 năm 2008). “Bush Shoe-ing Worst Arab Insult”. BBC News. Lưu trữ bản gốc ngày 16 tháng 10 năm 2012. Truy cập ngày 24 tháng 7 năm 2012.
  53. ^ Arab culture: the insult of the shoe Lưu trữ 2018-03-12 tại Wayback Machine, The Telegraph, 15 December 2008.
  54. ^ Bush shoe-ing worst Arab insult Lưu trữ 2012-05-30 tại Wayback Machine, BBC, 16 December 2008.
  55. ^ Reeve, Andru J. (2004). Turn Me On, Dead Man: The Beatles and the "Paul Is Dead" Hoax. Bloomington, Indiana: AuthorHouse. tr. 79. ISBN 978-1-4184-8294-7. Lưu trữ bản gốc ngày 27 tháng 4 năm 2016.
  56. ^ Cohen, Sam (11 tháng 9 năm 2011). “Empty Shoes an Emotional Reminder of Those Who Died on 9/11”. Fox 40. Truy cập ngày 23 tháng 7 năm 2012.[liên kết hỏng]
  57. ^ Đăng ký phát minh US 1725334, "Foot-measuring instrument", trao vào [[{{{gdate}}}]] 
  58. ^ R. Boughey. Size Labelling of Footwear. Journal of Consumer Studies & Home Economics. Volume 1, Issue 2. June 1977. DOI:10.1111/j.1470-6431.1977.tb00197.x
  59. ^ International Standard ISO 9407:2019, Shoe sizes—Mondopoint system of sizing and marking